Step-by-step guide on Mitsubishi Outlander timing belt replacement

REPXPERT releases technical guide for Outlander 2.0 TDi timing belt change

The Outlander has always been a popular 4 x 4 but REPXPERT wondered if the VW 2.0 TDI application in the Outlander made it any easier or harder to change the timing belt – here’s REPXPERT’S advice for technicians.

We decided to change the water pump and all the Front End Auxiliary Drive (FEAD) components.

This reduced the likely hood of future failures but providing the vehicle owner a cost effective replacement as most of them were already removed.

Conveniently INA produce everything required in just two kits to enable a complete and professional repair.

Kits for the job

  • Tensioner kit: timing belt, tensioner, guide pullies, nuts, studs, bolts and a water pump.
  • FEAD kit: belt, OAP, guide pulley and tensioner.

We opted to use the engine support cradle, as it supports the engine whilst still allowing you to raise and lower the ramp.

With the vehicle on a two post ramp we removed the RH wheel, the undertray and the RH wheel arch closing panel.

We mounted the cradle and took the load of the engine.

Now’s a good a time to disconnect the bottom hose and drain the coolant into a container.

Unbolt the intercooler pipe support bracket by the TV damper and remove the front and rear engine support bracket through bolts, all to allow the engine to be raised when required.

Make a note of the FEAD belt run then using a spanner carefully release the belt tension and remove the auxiliary belt.

Remove the lower FEAD belt tensioner bolt and undo the four bolts retaining the TV damper.

After noting the location dimple you can remove it.

Undo the engine mounting bracket lower boltbut leave it in place.

Lower the vehicle and disconnectthe battery and removethe acoustic engine cover.

Disconnect the bleed pipe from the header tank and stow the tank to one side.

Unbolt the PAS pipe support bracket from the engine mount and temporarily slacken the PAS pipe from the pump.

Undo and remove the RH engine mount through bolt, the upper mounting and the mounting attached to the body before retightening the PAS Pipe in a more suitable out of the way orientation.

Unclip and remove the timing belt upper coverand with the engine jacked up on the cradle undo the upper fixing of the FEAD belt tensioner and remove it.

At this point you can remove the other engine mount fixings but like other applications of this engine it isn’t coming out.

The lower belt covers can now be removed.Like all timing belt jobs special tools are essential, the good news is this kit will get used a lot.

Rotate the crankshaft until the small mark on the crank pulley is approaching 12 o’clock and the twowindows in the camshaft sprockets are at the top.

Fit the crank pulley special tool aligning the arrow with the timing mark and continue to rotate the crank until the tool drops into the hole in the oil pump.

At this point you can try and insert the two timing pins in the camshaft sprocket, if they wont go in check with a mirror to make sure you are in the right place then slacken the three bolts on each sprocket and rotate the camshaft centre bolt until they fit.

With the engine pegged you can now make a mental note where the eccentric is and slacken the tensioner nut,rotate to relieve the belt tensionand remove the tensioner completely.

You can then remove the belt feeding it around the immoveable engine mount.

Idler pulley and guide pulley can be removed and with care the tensioner and small guide pulley studs can be removed with two nuts after noting which one goes where as they are different.

The nuts on these studs are torqued to yield so it’s important to replace them with extreme care.

Poorly helicoiled holes can cause a whole different set of problems.

Thewater pump, FEAD belt idler and Over-Running Alternator Pulley (OAP) can all now be removed.

Following a quick clean up with an airline to remove any residual coolant and belt dust the reassembly can begin.

The new water pump comes with a new O ring so no need for any seal damaging RTV.

The new studs can be fittedwith two nuts and tightened to 15Nm.

Fit the new guide pullies fromboth kits, the new OAPand loosely fit the new timing belt tensioner.

Make sure the cam sprockets are free to rotate then feed the new belt from the crank pulleyin a clockwise directionaround the pully’s and the immoveable bracket.

You now have to check that the cam sprockets bolts are not at the end of the banana slots so they have some room to move when tensioning and importantly the tag on the tensioner is located correctly and you can onlydo that with a mirror.

If all that’s OK and the engines cold, then you can go ahead and tension the belt following the arrow on the tensioner in this case clockwise and checking the pointer with a mirror.

When its aligned you can tighten the nut to 20Nm (add the 45◦later) whilst holding it still.

Now tighten the six cam pulley bolts to 25Nm, remove the pins and timing tool and rotate the engine two complete turns.

Bring the engine back towards TDC until the rear camshaft timing pin can be inserted then the front and the crank pulley tool should be able to be inserted and the tensioner pointer aligned or within 5 mm to the right.

If the front cam pin wont go in slacken the three rear cam bolts, turn the crank until the front cam pin fits then slacken the three front cam bolts, turn the crank anticlockwise until the crank tool is just before the alignment hole then rotate the crank clockwise until the special tool drops into the oil pump.

Then whilst holding the cam pulleys with anti-rotation tools tighten the three bolts in each to25Nm again.

Repeat the checking process then remove all the tools.

Add 45◦to the tensioner nut whilst holding with an allen key.

Fit the engine mount, the lower belt covers,thenew FEAD tensioner and the TV damper.

The belt is probably a two man job to feed it around all the new pulleys and OAP before carefully allowing the tensioner to tension the belt.

Replace the rest of the components not forgetting to top up the coolant and PAS fluid.

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