Schaeffler REPXPERT shares step-by-step guide
In this month’s Schaeffler Luk clutch feature, REPXPERT Alistair Mason is replacing the clutch assembly and dual mass flywheel on a 2009 Audi TT 2.0 TDI Quattro that has covered over 85,000 miles.
The customer reported that the clutch had been “slipping” when accelerating.
A short road test confirmed the clutch had reached the end of its service life and clutch replacement was advised.
With a recommended book time of seven hours and all repair information available through Schaeffler’s information portal, REPXPERT, this makes a great repair for any independent workshop.
Workshop equipment required
- Vehicle lift, two post is ideal.
- Engine support.
- Transmission jack.
- Clutch alignment tool.
- Brake/clutch pressure bleeder.
Prior to starting the repair, ensure you have the locking wheel bolt key and radio code if required.
With the vehicle placed on the lift, open the bonnet and boot, disconnect the battery located in the boot and obtain the locking wheel bolt key and then slacken the locking wheel bolts on both front wheels.
Working in the engine bay, remove the engine cover, disconnect the air mass meter and vacuum pipe, then remove the air filter assembly and then the air filter assembly carrier.
This now gives good access to the top of the gearbox. Remove the gear change cables, selector lever weight assembly and cable retaining bracket (fig 1 & 2), clamp the flexible hydraulic clutch pipe and then disconnect the pipe from the concentric slave cylinder connection (fig 3).
Now disconnect the wiring from the starter motor and remove the earth lead from the starter motor top retaining bolt, then remove the top starter motor retaining bolt, disconnect the reverse light switch multiplug and remove the top bell housing bolts.
Raise the vehicle to gain access to the underside of the vehicle and remove the engine undertray, lower the vehicle to waist height, remove both front wheels, remove the inner wheel arch liners and then raise the lift and remove the alloy under guard framework (fig 4).
Now remove the front driveshafts by removing the hub nuts and the spline bolts retaining the inner CV joints, release both bottom ball joints and then remove both front driveshafts.
Now remove the transfer box from the gearbox, mark the position of the prop shaft onto the transfer box , unclip the oil level sensor wiring loom from the retaining clip, disconnect the exhaust front pipe sleeves and remove the rubber mounting assembly, remove the three 12 point bolts from the transfer box to cushion drive assembly (fig 5), remove the lower gearbox pendulum mounting (fig 6), ease the engine and gearbox forward and disconnect the prop shaft from the transfer box and support as required.
Drain the gearbox oil and then remove the O/S/F driveshaft flange using a long 6mm Allen key, remove the transfer box retaining bracket bolts and then the four main body securing bolts, at this point the transfer box can be removed and secured.
Now remove the lower bell housing bolts, leaving two easily accessible bolts in position to retain the gearbox, remove the starter motor, support the engine using either a brace bar, sub-frame support or second transmission jack, remove the gearbox mounting, lower the engine/transmission assembly to aid gearbox removal, support the gearbox using a transmission jack, remove the final bell housing bolts, now ease the gearbox away from the engine, once clear, lower the transmission jack and place the gearbox in a safe area.
Remove the six clutch retaining bolts (fig 7), remove the clutch cover and plate assembly, inspecting the clutch plate confirmed the clutch had reached the end of its service life as the friction material had worn close to the rivets.
The dual mass flywheel (DMF) was replaced on the customer’s request, with the DMF removed, inspect the back of the engine for any oil leaks and rectify as required, clean the back of the engine with clutch and brake dust cleaner, mount the new DMF, insert the new bolts and tighten to the manufactures torque specification, torque values are available through REPXPERT and on Schaeffler’s REPXPERT app, finally de-grease the clutch surface on the flywheel.
We now focus on the gearbox (fig 8), remove the CSC, inspect the bell housing area for any oil leaks and rectify as required, clean the bell housing area, confirm the CSC mounting surface is clean, mount the new CSC and ensure the retaining bolts have tightened correctly.
Note – do not operate or squeeze the CSC as this could damage the new CSC.
Apply a light smear of high melting point grease to the gearbox input shaft splines, now mount the new clutch plate onto the input shaft, this will confirm the clutch plate is correct and evenly distribute the grease, remove the clutch plate and wipe off any excess grease.
De-grease the clutch pressure plate surface, using a clutch alignment tool, mount the new clutch onto the DMF, fit the clutch bolts and torque to the manufacture’s specification.
Before re-fitting the gearbox, it is always good practice to flush out the old clutch fluid and replace it with new, also ensure the gearbox alignment dowels are located correctly.
Mount the gearbox onto the transmission jack, ease into position, align the gearbox to the engine, once in position and located on the dowels, secure with two bell housing bolts.
Refit in reverse order of removal, when the battery has been reconnected, reset all effected electrical consumers, replenish the gearbox oil with the correct quantity and grade of oil.
Schaeffler’s advice when bleeding this clutch is to pressure bleed at 2.0 bar. Always carry out a full road test to ensure a quality repair.
Further information on Schaeffler products, fitting instructions and repair times can be found on the REPXPERT garage portal by clicking here.